These 7-foot welded wire fence kits create reliable tall deer fences. Gates not included. Options include braces and extra posts.
Products included in every 100 feet of each kit:
1) 100 x 7.5 feet of welded wire deer fencing with 1″ x 1″ square mesh to make a 7-foot fence with a 6-inch bottom fold.
2) Seven 1-5/8″ x 106″ round steel posts, 16 ga. walls, galvanized with a black powder-coat finish.
3) Seven 1-5/8″ black vinyl post caps.
4) 8 strong 10″ stainless steel zip-lock fasteners per post for attaching the fencing.
5) 18+ foot-long kinked galvanized ground stakes to secure the fencing to the ground.
6) 10+ white warning flags to warn the deer away from a new fence at night.
7) Fence installation instructions.
ABOUT OUR GATES, BRACES, AND OPTIONS (Beware. Long Text Below!):
- GATES: No gates are provided with these 7-foot welded wire fence kits. Purchase your gates here.
- BRACES: We offer the giant corner and end braces provided by other sellers, but we regard them as expensive, ugly, and time-consuming to install. Earth anchors, as described below, provide much better bracing for deer fences and have none of these drawbacks. If you install them right, you don’t even need to have any attachment cables hanging outside the fence line (see below). And for fences with 4 corners you will save over $300.
- Mesh Sizes: These kits come with 1” x 1” mesh, but you can get 2” x 2” mesh instead. The 1” x 1” mesh consists of 19-gauge steel wires galvanized after welding and coated with black pvc. The 2” x 2” mesh consists of 16 gauge steel wires galvanized after welding and coated with black pvc. The latter is stronger but more visible, porous to small critters, and easier for animals to climb. Both types are rated to have 25+ years of useful life.
- Earth Anchors: RECOMMENDED for all 7-foot welded wire fence kits over 100 feet long. These provide the best and cheapest way of bracing ends and corners. Get 2 anchors per corner and 1 per end (our gates come with their own bracing). Keep attachment cables from hanging outside the fence line. Do this by screwing the anchor in along the fence line, heading from the next to the last post toward the last post, and then securing the attachment wire to the top of the next to the last post. These anchors, which can be added in groups of 4, 8, or 12, come with attachment wire.
- Extra Posts: STRONGLY RECOMMENDED for all snow-prone areas, especially for fences with 1” x 1” mesh. Successive snowstorms can challenge your fence with heavy loads of ice and snow. The best way to protect it against possible collapse is by putting the posts closer together (about 10 feet apart) instead of using the traditional 15-foot spacing. Choosing our “extra posts” option allows you to do that.
- Manual Post Driver: Get this if you don’t already have one. Customers sometimes imagine themselves standing atop a tall ladder waving a sledgehammer at a post. Well, forget it. Just bring over one of those two-step stools used to move dishes about the pantry. Then slip this gadget (about 2 feet long) over one end of your long post; put the other end of the post where you want to install it; get one step up on the stool, raise the driver 6 inches to a foot; drop it down on the post (driving the post in an inch or two) and repeat.
- Digging Bar: If you’re using the driver above and strike a rock or root it’s not convenient—because you need to remove the post and start again a few inches away. To avoid that, use this digging bar or the one you have in your garage. Push it an inch or two into the ground or tap it in with a hammer. Then stir it like you would a big cauldron of soup, tap it in again, and repeat. In short order you will reach the tape you put on the bar to indicate you have reached the right depth (the depth to which the post should go). That proves no rocks or roots are in the way. Now take the post and tap it in with the manual post driver as described above. It’s easy.
