These 6-foot poly deer fence kits create tall deer fences with rodent barriers. Gates not included. Options include braces, a top support wire, and extra posts.
Products included in every 100 feet of each kit:
1) 100 x 6 feet of professional polypropylene deer fencing (Deer 1)
2) 100 x 2 feet of welded wire 1″ x 1″ fencing plus gear for attachment to the poly fencing so as to create a 6-foot fence with a 6-inch bottom fold.
2) Seven black galvanized steel posts for a fence with a finished height of 6 feet.
3) Seven 1-5/8″ black vinyl post caps.
4) 7 strong 10″ nylon zip-lock fasteners per post for attaching the fencing.
5) 18+ foot-long kinked galvanized ground stakes to secure the fencing to the ground.
6) 10+ white warning flags to warn the deer away from a new fence at night.
7) Fence installation instructions.
ABOUT OUR GATES, BRACES, AND OPTIONS (Beware, Long Text Below!):
- GATES: No gates are provided with these 6-foot poly deer fence kits. Purchase your gates here.
- BRACES: We offer the giant corner and end braces provided by other sellers, but we regard them as expensive, ugly, and time-consuming to install. Earth anchors, as described below, provide much better bracing for deer fences and have none of these drawbacks. If you install them right, you don’t even need to have any attachment cables hanging outside the fence line (see below). And for fences with 4 corners you will save over $300.
- Brace Bands: Install these little round black 1-5/8” steel bands (they come with nuts and bolts) at the tops of our round posts to ensure the fencing will not slide down the posts. Depending on post spacing, put on one band every 15 or 20 feet.
- Top Support Wire: This strong PVC-coated black steel wire improves the look of your fence by straightening the top. It also protects against falling branches. The wire requires brace bands (sold for this kit separately) but comes with other mounting gear (u-bolt terminators for ending runs of wire and zip-ties or a hog ring stapler and staples for joining your fencing to the wire).
- Earth Anchors: RECOMMENDED FOR ALL FENCES OVER 100 FEET LONG. These provide the best and cheapest way of bracing ends and corners. Get 2 anchors per corner and 1 per end (our gates come with their own bracing). Keep attachment cables from hanging outside the fence line. Do this by screwing the anchor in along the fence line, heading from the next to the last post toward the last post, and then securing the attachment wire to the top of the next to the last post. These anchors, which can be added in groups of 4, 8, or 12, come with attachment wire.
- Rodent Barrier: STRONGLY RECOMMENDED for any site with rabbits or woodchucks (ground hogs). Without the barrier, these rodents will gnaw small holes in the fencing that deer may then poke their heads into to enlarge and gain entrance to the enclosure. This very common problem is prevented by installing our “rodent barrier,” a narrow strip of metal fencing (galvanized steel, black pvc-coated, 2 feet wide, 18 inches joined to the poly fencing, 6 inches folded out along the bottom), using zip ties or a hog ring stapler.
- Extra Posts: STRONGLY RECOMMENDED for all snow-prone areas. Successive snowstorms can challenge your fence with heavy loads of ice and snow. The best way to protect it against possible collapse is by putting the posts closer together (about 10 feet apart) instead of using the traditional 15-foot spacing. Choosing our “extra posts” option allows you to do that.
- Manual Post Driver: Get this if you don’t already have one. Customers sometimes imagine themselves standing atop a tall ladder waving a sledgehammer at a post. Well, forget it. Just bring over one of those two-step stools used to move dishes about the pantry. Then slip this gadget (about 2 feet long) over one end of your 9-foot post; put the other end of the post where you want to install it; get one step up on the stool, raise the driver 6 inches to a foot; drop it down on the post (driving the post in an inch or two) and repeat.
- Digging Bar: If you’re using the driver above and strike a rock or root it’s not convenient—because you need to remove the post and start again a few inches away. To avoid that, use this digging bar or the one you have in your garage. Push it an inch or two into the ground or tap it in with a hammer. Then stir it like you would a big cauldron of soup, tap it in again, and repeat. In short order you will reach the tape you put on the bar to indicate you have reached the right depth (the depth to which the post should go). That proves no rocks or roots are in the way. Now take the post and tap it in with the manual post driver as described above. It’s easy.